Nearly every professional contractor uses an air compressor. Of course, its not just a construction tool. Automotive, woodworking, aviation, marine, and many others use compressors to power air tools. When I got our team together to decide on the best air compressor, we sparked a fierce debate concerning brands, styles, prices, and much more.
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The first questions were What size? and Whats the application? Good points. The selections below are the result of many hundreds of hours of testing and usenot to mention several more hours of internal discussion! Now that the physical and relational bruises have healed, Im ready to share our expert opinions across a range of compressor categories.
Coming off of the success of the Metabo HPT pancake air compressor (also called The Tank), the 8-gallon ECSM delivers more CFM and capacity. Max pressure is 225 PSIwhich youll likely never use. However, what you may use is the 5 CFM (at 90 PSI) which lets you run up to 3 framing nailers or 4 roofing/siding nailers simultaneously.
Running a trim crew? Connect as many as five 15-gauge or 16-gauge finish nailers and get to work! In either of these scenarios, each tool would have plenty of air to drive nails. Another great feature is the quick ramp-up timejust 55 seconds to get from to 125 PSI from empty. When you do run it below 95 PSI, the recovery time is a brisk 14 seconds.
For the money, you get a lot in this capable package. Between the wheeled portability and capacitythis compressor is my all-around go-to workhorse on any jobsite.
Choosing the best small air compressor used to mean grabbing a pancake model. Lately, however, smaller hot dog compressors have proven their worth on small punch lists and trim jobs. The almost unbelievably small DeWalt D features a 1-gallon tank and weighs less than a Cocker Spaniel. I can stand this compressor on the rear floor of an F150 SuperCab without a second thought and get to work.
The key to enjoying this trim compressor is application. It consistently drove 18-gauge brad nailers and 23-gauge pinners without any difficulty. If you want to do some remodeling with a framing nailer, youll want to get a larger model (like the DeWalt 6-gallon pancake compressor or one of my other recommendations).
Lastly, the D doesnt make a ton of noise. Its around 4-5 dBA quieter than most other trim compressors. Thats more than enough to be noticeable.
At 60 decibels, the Rolair Ultra-Quiet 2.5-gallon air compressor is quiet enough to hold a conversation next to it. As impressive as this is, the noise level represents just one of many features we liked after choosing it as the quietest portable air compressor.
The JC10PLUS offers better air delivery than most. With up to 2.4 CFM at 90 PSI, it uses a 1.0 HP motor to put out enough air to drive most framing and roofing nailers. It keeps the noise down by running at RPM with just a 7.5-amp draw on the motor. I love the roll cage, the centered rubber handle, and the fact that it weighs just 50 pounds. Its about as portable as you can get for this capacity without putting wheels on it (which increases bulk).
Lastly, the cycle times are shortnearly identical to the larger 8-gallon Metabo HPT model thats our overall top pick. Expect it to take around 14 seconds to get from 95-125 PSI. I also consider Rolair one of the best air compressor brands on the market, with models ranging from hand-carry models to wheeled and stationary units up to 200 gallons in size.
Both the DeWalt FlexVolt and Milwaukee cordless compressors make solid cordless compressors and carry similar specs. However, the 2-gallon Milwaukee earns the nod for several reasons. First, its a full 11 decibels quieter (just 68 dBA). Audibly, that sounds about half as loud as the DeWalt! It does trade a bit of that for weight, however.
While its certainly helpful on jobsites with no power, our plumbing pro also successfully used it to bleed heaters (which typically have to be done manually) and air-test PEX on several re-pipes. It even worked to pressure test a new sewer line.
You get a very respectable 1.2 SCFM at 90 PSIabout what you could expect from a capable corded trim compressor. The roll cages carry handle (and good balance) are the cherry on top. A bit pricey at $379 as a bare tool, I still like the portability and performance for professionals. This compressor also earned a Pro Tool Innovation Award.
Things got heated when we started talking about the best shop compressor. One thing is clear: Ingersoll-Rand, Jet, and Rolair dominate the shop compressor space in the opinion of our review team. Either of those brands represents a solid choice.
The Ingersoll-Rand N stands out as it offers 100% duty cycle operation with 17.2 CFM at 90 PSI. (IR has models that go up to 24 CFM or more). This single-phase compressor also installs easily into any garage with an available 230V circuit. Commercial shops can look at the 3-phase model.
This is a premium product for any shop looking to drive sanders, lifts, and multiple impact wrenches or other air tools simultaneously. At $, expect to pay for the quality you get with this system.
Editors Note: Be sure to also check out our recommendation for the best portable air compressor for your home garage
Priced around $129, this Craftsman 6-gallon pancake compressor lets you tackle anything from framing to trim tasks. It delivers up to 120 PSI pressure consistently (150 PSI max) with airflow of 2.6 SCFM at 90 PSI. The oil-free design should let you use this for many years with little to no maintenance. For those keeping score, the fact that this product is manufactured in the USA makes it even better.
We tested this product on managing a small fleet of vehicles for a local non-profit ministry as well as with smaller trim jobs and limited framing applications and punch lists. The 6-gallon capacity really helps when you have a small project involving higher-demand air such as roofing. The fact that I could run a couple of tools at once without a splitter just adds to the appeal of this inexpensive tool.
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I reach for Kobalt when looking for an inexpensive but quality compressor in just about any form factor. Found at Lowes, their larger-capacity 26-gallon vertical compressor offers up 4.5 CFM at 90 PSI. The supplies enough air for many sanding and air tool applications. Add to that the low price and you have a solid stationary compressor pick for your shop or garage.
Metabo HPT simply nailed the design of their 9-gallon Tank XL wheelbarrow air compressor. Powered by a Honda GX160 engine, it oozes long-term reliability. With a pair of 4.5-gallon tanks, it delivers 9.5 CFM at 90 PSIdropping only slightly to 9.3 CFM at 100 PSI. Thats plenty of CFM to run 4-5 roofing nailers at one timerapid-fire. From start to finish, I believe Metabo HPT makes the all-around best wheelbarrow air compressor.
Porter Cable C is basically a clone of the Craftsman CMEC but with a $20 premium. This solid, budget-friendly air compressor supplies enough air for DIY and entry-level pro trim and minimal framing use. I like the 6-gallon capacity and 2.6 CFM airflow rate at 90 PSI. A great all-around tool for the DIYer or Pro on a budget.
This dual-stack electric air compressor provides up to 5.1 CFM at 90 PSI. This alone makes it a great solution for running a couple of framing or roofing nailers and even has some use for certain sanding applications. The 77 dBA noise rating makes it quieter than many, but other models produce less sound if thats your top priority.
This basic but versatile 1-gallon cordless air compressor provides up to 120 PSI and is perfect for DIY light-duty use and trim projects. If youre already on the Ryobi 18V tool platform, then opt for the $179 tool-only model. With 0.5 CFM at 90 PSI it wont run more than a single trim tool efficiently, but it still gives you a very portable (just 14 pounds) solution for the jobsite or DIY projects.
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The most common air compressors run on either gas or electric power. Electric models run at either 120V or 240V, depending on the level of performance they have. I prefer electric for its simplicity of use and youll note that I didnt make many gas picks in this list.
Gas units are usually reserved for jobs that require high air delivery when mobility is a priority. Certain wheelbarrow compressors come to mind.
Battery-powered air compressors are becoming more popular with several major power tool brands making them. These are typically lower-power options that are best for finish nailers and other low-supply applications.
When shopping for an air compressor, CFM and PSI are the key specs. They tell you the most about the performance you can expect.
CFM (often measured at 90 PSI) lets you know the volume of air the unit can sustain at a particular pressure. You can get higher CFM out of the tanks, but the pump wont be able to replace it as fast as youre using it. That means you have to take some breaks. Some tools, such as finish nailers, require very little CFM to keep up with the pace of the work. Other tools, like air sanders, need much higher CFM values to keep running.
PSI (pounds per square inch) is a measurement of the maximum pressure the pump can put in the tank. The higher the pressure, the greater the amount of air the tank can hold. 125 PSI is a good starting point and 200 PSI gets you into the high end of the spectrum for the most common units. On the output side, most nailers, ratchets, and sanders require 90-100 PSI.
The reality is that every tool has its own CFM and PSI requirements. Check the package or the manual for the tool youre considering and make sure the air compressor youre buying handles both. To make sure you get the most from your compressor, we recommend going with a model that gives you 50% higher CFM than your highest tools needs.
Pro Tip: Drain your air compressor after every use. The air that comes in carried moisture with it and can start to rust the tank from the inside, especially around coastal areas.
Before choosing an air compressor, decide whether you need portability, capacity, or a mix of both. Compressors come with tank sizes ranging from 1 gallon to 200 gallons. The tank combines with the maximum PSI to determine how much compressed air it can deliver before the motor has to recycle more air, compressing it and sending it back into the tank.
Smaller electric compressors are highly portable. They can run on a generator if you dont have a direct AC power supply nearby. On the other hand, larger units tend to be installed in place with air piped to the most convenient locations where you install connectors for your hoses.
Even if you find your compressors tank capacity is a little low, you can add a reserve tank to increase it.
Pro Tip: Every tank has an expiration date. Replace it once you reach that date to ensure the tank doesnt fail.
Most portable air compressors have one or two couplings on board. Its also possible to add a two or three-way splitter. Just be aware that youre sharing the air and your system needs to work harder to keep up.
Air compressors can be noisy! Add in a small gas engine and they get loud enough that youll want hearing protection.
One way to reduce noise is with the drive style. Belt drive compressors run quieter than direct drive by nature.
If you frequently work indoors, in occupied spaces, or around noise-sensitive campuses, look for a quiet compressor. These can drop down below 60 decibels (though most are more) and operate at a level you can actually hold a conversation next to.
Most quiet models are on the lower air delivery side. That means youre unlikely to find one thats good for sanding or roofing.
Duty cycle is a rating that tells you the percentage of time your compressor can run. For example, a 50% duty capacity tells you it needs 30 minutes of downtime for every 30 minutes of running.
If youre looking for the best model in a high-use environment, check the rating. Look for a compressor with a 100% duty cycle for high-demand work. For work that doesnt keep a compressor working to keep up the entire time (most common), a 50% duty cycle is just fine.
Some air compressors can run continuously with a particular amount of airflow guaranteed at the outlet. You find these in industrial applications and they typically use whats known as a rotary-screw design. The other kind of continuous duty design involves air supply underwater and for similar applications where a steady flow of air is required from a more portable design.
Without going into a ton of detail about air compressor pumps, there are two basic types: oiled and oil-free. Oil-free models are much more convenient since you dont have to worry about oil levels and require less maintenance.
Dont be afraid of splash-lubricated compressors, though. They dont require a ton of refilling even though you should keep an eye on the levels frequently. In the end, your best bet is the compressor that meets your tools requirements whether it needs oil or not.
We mention several different types of air compressors above. If youre shopping for your first one, heres a breakdown of what we mean:
Pancake air compressors use a round, flatter tank style with the motor and pump on top. Theyre highly portable and stable with a relatively small footprint. These are a favorite among trim carpenters but I also see a lot of roofers using them due to some models including higher CFM ratings.
A hot dog air compressor uses a single, longer cylinder-shaped tank with the motor and pump up top. Smaller capacity models are similar in footprint to pancake designs while larger capacities tend to take up more room. Some models may include a wheel system built into the frame. Tank sizes vary on these but generally, they fall between 1 and 5 gallons.
Essentially, a twin-stack air compressor features a double hot dog style. The two tanks can be on the base or stacked on top of one another with the motor and pump shifting from the top to the front side. The advantage is primarily additional capacity. Some models will have a wheel and handle system built into the frame.
Take a twin-stack air compressor and expand it, and you get a wheelbarrow compressor. These usually feature two high-capacity tanks on the base with a gas engine for its power plant (there are also electric models). A single wheel between the tanks and handles on the opposite side makes it portable despite its much heavier design.
Vertical air compressors use a single high-capacity tank with the motor and pump mounted on top. Smaller models usually have a handle and wheels that you can move around similar to a hand truck. Larger models are designed to be installed and stay in place.
Don, what you say is true, but it is not so simple, and there is more to it than just CFM.
You have to take into consideration duty cycle, heat, wear and tear, and also air line pressure requirements for tools.
Consider a typical 135psi single stage compressor. With a 25 3/8 hose, 3/8 or High flow couplers, 135 psi will get you about 90 psi working pressure At high consumption tools. By that I mean 1/2 impacts, drills, sanders, die grinders, etc. But, keep in mind that this is at the compressors kick off pressure. By the time the compressor kicks on, you Have dropped to 105psi. Thats going to result in a pretty dramatic loss in pressure at the tool, and be very noticeably down on power. Now, if you are running an HVLP gun, who cares, because most run 20-50psi, but for most common tools, you are going to deal the drop. Its even worse with a 50 hose. It was an incredible pain in the butt to run my 1.3hp 4-1/2 angle grinder consistently off a typical 135psi single stage compressor. Same with air drills using hole saws. Drill half way through and run out of power. Been there, tried that, didnt work out. When trying to get a job done, its incredibly frustrating to deal with the large fluctuations in power as pressure drops.
With a two stage 175 psi compressor, the kick on pressure is typically 135-145 psi. With this set-up, I can set a regulator to 120-130psi, and run air tools with no fluctuations in power, which is huge when hogging away material with a grinder, or using hole saws on a drill. As long as tool usage is at or below compressor output, the two stage will give you enough head room to maintain working pressure at the tool.
There is a durability factor as well. Compressing air requires considerable force and also results in a lot of heat. Single stage compressors do this compression all in one shot. If the kick off pressure is 135psi, the pressure in the cylinder is at least 135psi as the piston nears tdc. With a two stage, each stage shares the load. The first stage is usually around 70-120 psi, and the final small high pressure cylinder piston takes it to 175. This results in less heat in each cylinder because neither one of them is pumping the air up as much as a typical single stage compressor. Then there is the load side of it as well. For a similar swept displacement, the single stage will see higher forces on the piston skirts, piston pins, rods, rod bearings, etc... as a result of the higher internal pressure. You may say the two stage has higher pressure on the second stage. Yes, but remember the piston is smaller and has far less surface area, so the force on downstream parts is still lower. Less pressure on the bearings, etc results in longer wearing pumps given similar materials and tolerances. add all this up, and it is why most single stage compressors have lower duty cycles than two stage compressors. There are good and bad examples of both, but the average is far easier to deal with heat and wear in two stage designed than in single stage.
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