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Distinct hat styles emerged by region. For example, in the Southwest, cowpunchers donned high-crowned &#;10-gallons&#; for ample shade, while in the Great Basin, Buckaroos came to prefer a &#;flat hat,&#; often made of straw and designed to stay out of the way of long lassos. Early photographs of range riders across the West show an enormous variation in hat styles, from silk &#;stovepipes&#; and derby &#;pots,&#; to sombreros and cavalry styles. In Montana Territory during the s&#;&#;80s, cowboys drove cattle up the trails from Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, and other regions, which led to a hodge-podge of headwear across the range. Also, many cowboys in the late s and early s were immigrants. For herding cattle or sheep, they simply wore the hats they stepped off the boat wearing. The first cowboy hats were made of beaver, rabbit, or other fur, but felt soon became the preferred (and priciest) material. Eventually, it became clear that certain styles were only good for certain settings (Who would wear a top hat on the plains?) and designs became increasingly functional to the places and conditions in which the cowboys were working.
John B. Stetson, the son of a New Jersey haberdasher, set the standard in the early mass production of cowboy hats with his &#;Boss of the Plains&#; model in , designed while on an expedition up Pike&#;s Peak. His hat became all the rage in the West. However, most Stetsons got pretty beat up on the job and began to curl at the brim and lose their silk ribbons. But this distressed look became preferred to the overly-refined, fresh-off-the-line Stetson. So much so that many cowboys even began to intentionally shape their own hats by creasing the crown and curling the brim, making four dents into a peak, two dents, a center crease, two parallel creases, or simply leaving the crown rounded. Stetson soon caught on to this trend and began mass-producing creased and curled hats. In the s and &#;50s, Hollywood&#;a space seldom concerned with historical accuracy&#;created its own cowboy styles on the big screen, which then rubbed off on cowboy fashion, carrying homogenized hat styles from the silver screen to the range and far beyond. Contemporary American Country Music stars&#;whether real cowboys or not&#;further popularized the wearing of cowboy hats far beyond just big cattle country.
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