Tomatoes

Plant Care

Watering

Check for adequate soil moisture every 2-3 days. The soil should remain moist, but take care to not oversaturate as this encourages blossom-end rot. Drip irrigation helps to meet the high-water demand for this crop, about 1-1.5 inches per week depending on soil type and temperature, which is especially important during the fruiting stage. Deep watering is important to strengthen the root system. If plants are stressed for adequate water, this will significantly impact tomato production.

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Insufficient potassium may lead to yellow shoulders on fruit and a tough, white core during hot summer temperatures. Blossom-end rot, a very common tomato nutritional disorder, is caused by lack of calcium. Soil may have sufficient calcium levels, but if the gardener fails to water enough, calcium may not be dissolved in the soil for root uptake. If watering practices are corrected and blossom-end rot persists, conduct a soil test and discuss results with a local county extension agent.

Organic fertilizers such as compost, fish emulsion, composted poultry litter or manure, worm castings, and blood or bone meal originate from living organisms. They are far more environmentally sustainable and safe than traditional synthetic fertilizers. They naturally release nutrients more slowly and over a longer period of time. When applying organic fertilizer, it is important to use in unison with compost, cover crops, and crop rotation, which all work together to build soil health. Learn how to convert inorganic fertilizer recommendations to organic fertilizers here.

Alternatively, a synthetic fertilizer may be used at a rate of about 1.5 pounds (3 cups) of 13-13-13 for every 25 feet of row or 75 square feet. Broadcast, or sprinkle evenly, over the soil and then mix in about 3-6 inches deep using a rake. Supplemental sidedressing, or reapplication of synthetic fertilizer, is recommended when the first immature fruits are visible. Sidedressing is the addition of fertilizer to the soil around already established plants when the plant begins to fruit or vine, primarily to provide nitrogen. When using synthetic fertilizer, sprinkle 2 tablespoons around each plant, keeping it about 6 inches away from the plant stem; water into the soil. Indeterminate tomatoes require the application of additional sidedressing every 3-4 weeks until the end of the crop. Fish emulsion is a good, quick-release source of nitrogen if using organic fertilizers.

Support

Staking of tomatoes improves fruit quality by keeping plants and fruit off the ground, and they are easier to harvest than ground tomatoes. Determinate tomato plants are often staked even though the stems do not grow tall. Indeterminate tomato plants must be supported to train the stem to grow vertically and support the weight of the fruit on very tall stems; this will also optimize yield and fruit quality. There are many options to support tomato plants, but cages are not recommended as they prohibit air circulation and increase risk for disease. Here are three methods to support tomato plants:

1. Use one wooden stake per tomato plant (recommended for a few plants). Drive 4- to 5-foot (determinate) or 8-foot (indeterminate) by 1-inch square wooden stakes into the ground (about 12 inches deep) before transplanting at the recommended plant spacing intervals (about 24 inches). One transplant should be planted beside each stake. Once the seedlings are 12-15 inches tall, secure to the stakes using an elastic nylon band, tying in a loose loop to prevent future stem girdling. Continue securing the plants to the stakes for every 12-15 inches of growth. See Figure 6 and this video on the method; start at 3:30.
2. Use the Florida Weave Technique (recommended for a row of plants). Place a metal T-post at the end of each row and one in the middle; then place 4- to 5-foot (determinate) or 8-foot (indeterminate) by 1-inch square wooden stakes between every few tomato plants. When the plants are 12-15 inches tall, use garden, tomato, or nylon twine to run lines about 10 inches above the soil. On each side of the row of plants, weave between each plant, and tie the twine to the stakes. In this method, the plant is never tied to the twine or stake. It is recommended to weave additional levels of trellis for every 12-15 inches of plant growth, or about 12 inches above the last support weave. Watch this helpful video tutorial on the Florida Weave System.
3. Use a vertical trellis (recommended for a row of plants; minimal staking required). Drive metal T-posts that are 8-10 feet tall about 2 feet into the ground between every 4-5 tomato plants. This will likely require a T-post driver or pounder tool. Then, hang a heavy single-strand wire (about 9 gauge) between each post or attach another structure above. From this wire/structure, hang garden, tomato, or nylon twine down to each tomato plant. Attach the twine to the base of each plant in a very loose knot that won&#;t be at risk for choking the stem as it grows. Start wrapping the stems around the string early, taking care not to pinch the leaves, and continue to do so as the plants grow. In this method, the plants are never tied to stakes or posts (see Figure 7). This video is helpful in showing how to set up the vertical trellis; this video describes the process of winding twine around the stems. For someone who is more skilled in carpentry, this video shows a simple but more sturdy design for a vertical tomato trellis that could function as a permanent addition to a raised garden bed.

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Suckering and Pruning

Pruning and suckering are essential for optimal fruit size and yield, while also controlling pests and preventing disease. Pruning is practiced to establish a desired balance between vine growth and fruit growth. Little to no prun­ing results in a plant with a heavy load of smaller fruit. Moderate pruning results in fewer fruits that are larger and easier to harvest. Pruning can result in earlier maturity of the crown fruit and im­proves spray coverage and pest control. The amount of pruning that is recommended is dependent on the specific variety, the season, and growing conditions.

Removing suckers is an ongoing process of removing the buds or suckers that would produce additional side shoots off the main plant stem. Suckering can be done by pinching off shoots by hand unless they have grown more than a few inches; then sharp snips or clippers should be used to prevent damage to the plant during removal. See Figure 8.

1. 1. Here is a short, simple video on how to sucker and prune tomato plants.
   2. Here is a longer, more detailed video on how to sucker and prune tomato plants, along with additional helpful tomato-growing tips.

Indeterminate varieties should be pruned to one or two main stems, removing all suckers along those main stems. It is generally not recommended to prune determinate varieties as they have a limited stem growth, are generally bushier, and are less vigorous. For all varieties, be sure to prune the lower leaves/stems to keep the base of the tomato plants clear; there should be no leaves touching the ground.

Weeds

Plastic mulch will control most of the weeds; hand-pull weeds close to the plant, especially in the planting holes. Organic mulches such as hay and straw may also be used to control weeds in plant rows.

Insect Pests and Disease

Aphids and thrips are common insect pests for tomato plants and can transmit harmful viruses like tomato spotted wilt virus and tobacco mosaic virus. Tomatoes are susceptible to viruses (e.g., tomato spotted wilt virus and tobacco mosaic virus), fungal diseases (e.g., anthracnose), and physiological disorders (e.g., blossom-end rot and sun scald). Many tomato varieties are resistant to specific diseases, and these should be selected and planted &#; especially if the garden has been afflicted by one or more diseases in previous growing seasons. Generally recommended tools for prevention are using reflective mulch; avoiding overhead irrigation; and crop rotation. See Table 3 to aid in diagnosis and management of some common tomato insect pests and diseases.

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Table 3. Organic and Natural Management for Common Tomato Insect Pests and Diseases

Symptoms Diagnosis Organic and Natural Pest Management &#; Occurs before fruit set
&#; Irregular brown-black elongated cankers or spots on stem
&#; Dark brown sunken lesions with concentric rings on green fruit
&#; Stem girdling and collapse

Alternaria stem canker

• Plant resistant varieties
• Crop rotation
• Improve air circulation
• Organic/natural fungicides

&#; Wet, humid conditions
&#; Black spots on fruit Anthracnose

• Crop rotation (3 years)
• Plant resistant varieties
• Avoid working in fields when plants are wet
• Mulch; avoid overhead irrigation
• Regular harvest; remove diseased fruit
• Organic/natural fungicides

&#; Curled and yellowed leaves
&#; Stunted crops
&#; Sticky honeydew on leaves Aphids

• Timely planting and harvest
• Reduce water stress
• Weed control
• Use water jet to dislodge
• Reflective mulches; insect barrier fabric
• Beneficial insects: lady bugs, lacewings, predatory stink bugs, syrphid flies
• Insecticidal soap, neem oil, pyrethrin, Azera

&#; Warm, humid conditions
&#; Small yellow-green, water-soaked spots on lower, older leaves
&#; Older spots become brown-black with yellow halo
&#; Yellowed leaves; defoliation
&#; Blossom drop and yield loss

Bacterial leaf spot

• Plant resistant varieties
• Avoid overhead irrigation
• Avoid working in fields when plants are wet
• Reduce plant stress
• Use copper-based fungicide sprays

&#; Green-yellow or black sunken spot on bottom of fruit
&#; Premature fruit ripening
&#; Calcium deficiency
&#; Drought stress; root damage
&#; Over-irrigation; high humidity Blossom-end rot

• Plant resistant varieties
• Keep soil pH at 6.0 to 6.5
• Fertilize (abundant calcium) and mulch
• Adequate, consistent irrigation, avoiding very wet/very dry cycles
• If soil is calcium deficient: drench soil around plants with calcium solution; remove fruit

&#; Soil-borne fungus
&#; Leaf blight and defoliation; low-quality fruit; sun scald
&#; May cause collar rot, stem canker, and fruit rot Early blight

• Plant resistant varieties
• Crop rotation
• Remove plant debris and till under remaining residue
• Prune lowest leaves and apply a mulch
• Avoid overhead irrigation
• Organic/natural fungicide sprays

&#; Small, irregular holes in leaves
&#; Concentrated damage in young plants and seedlings
&#; Stunted plants; reduced yield Flea beetle

• Timely planting
• Perimeter trap cropping
• Super Light Insect Barrier or AgroFabric Pro to protect transplants
• Crop rotation
• Reflective mulches
• Beneficial organisms: parasitic nematodes
• Insecticidal oil, spinosad, pyrethrin, Azera

&#; Larvae and caterpillars bore into fruit and eat leaves
&#; Hornworms have a horn on the back end; green with stripes
&#; Fruit decay and rot
&#; Defoliation Hornworm and fruitworm

• Weed control, timely fruit harvest
• Pheromone traps
• Insect netting
• Hand-pick and destroy larvae/caterpillars
• Till under crop debris each season to reduce overwintering insects
• Beneficial insects: assassin bugs, lacewing, lady beetles, parasitic wasps
• Insecticides: Azera, Bacillus thuringiensis, insecticidal soap, pyrethrin, spinosad, neem

&#; Soil-borne fungus
&#; Fast-spreading and sporadic
&#; Mild, moist weather
&#; Irregular, water-soaked dark lesions on leaves that enlarge to green-black blotches
&#; White, downy fungal growth on underside of lesions

Late blight

• Plant resistant varieties
• Moisture management
• Remove and destroy infected plants
• Organic/natural fungicides

&#; Small, yellow larvae
&#; Tunnels inside leaves with white trails
Leaf miners

• Row covers
• Beneficial insects: parasitic wasps
• Remove infected leaves

&#; Uneven distribution of stunted plants
&#; Pale green/yellow leaves; wilt
&#; Root galls, knots, swellings Root-knot nematodes

• Plant resistant varieties
• Crop rotation with non-host crops (corn, marigolds)
• Plant early; mulch; weed control
• Soil solarization, nematicides

&#; Girdled stem
&#; Plant wilt and death
&#; White fungal growth; mustard seed-like structures at plant base

Southern blight

• Remove diseased plants and topsoil
• Crop rotation

&#; Humid climate
&#; Defoliation and sunscald
&#; Small, dark brown specks on leaves that expand to spots with a yellow halo
&#; Lesions enlarge and center turns gray and cracked Stemphylium gray leaf spot

• Plant resistant varieties; cherry and grape tomatoes are more susceptible
• Avoid overhead irrigation; morning watering
• Crop rotation and adequate plant spacing
• Remove diseased plants and till under crop debris
• Organic/natural fungicides

&#; Transmitted by aphids
&#; Mottled (mosaic) light and dark green foliage
&#; Stunted plants
&#; Uneven fruit ripening; yield loss

Tobacco mosaic virus

• Plant resistant varieties
• Reflective mulch
• Remove diseased plants

&#; Transmitted by thrips
&#; Black, irregularly shaped lesions on leaves
&#; Discolored or lesioned fruit
&#; Stunted plants; wilt

Tomato spotted wilt virus

• Plant resistant varieties
• Weed control; reflective mulch
• Remove diseased plants

&#; Transmitted by whiteflies
&#; Yellowed and distorted leaves
&#; Stunted plants; small leaves; bushy appearance
&#; Reduced yield; blossom drop Tomato yellow leaf curl virus

• Plant resistant varieties
• Manage whiteflies; cover plants with floating row covers
• Weed control; reflective mulch
• Remove and discard infected plants

&#; Leaf discoloration and wilt
&#; Tiny white flies flutter when plants are disturbed
&#; Sticky honeydew on leaves
&#; Black, sooty mold fungus Whiteflies

• Regular monitoring of plants
• Crop rotation
• Insect netting (50+ mesh)
• Beneficial insects: lacewings, parasitic wasp, predatory mite
• Insecticidal soap, neem oil, Beauveria bassiana

&#; Plants wilt and die
&#; Brown streaks inside root and stem when split lengthwise
&#; Bacterial wilt is transmitted by the cucumber beetle Wilt (bacterial, Fusarium, Verticillium)

• Long crop rotation
• Control cucumber beetles
• Remove infected crop debris
• Control weeds