Tomatoes

Plant Care

Watering

Ensure the soil retains adequate moisture by checking every 2-3 days. The soil should stay moist but be careful not to oversaturate it, as this condition can lead to blossom-end rot. Drip irrigation is beneficial for this crop's high-water demand, which is about 1-1.5 inches weekly, depending on both soil type and temperature, particularly during the fruiting phase. Deep watering is essential for strengthening the root system. If plants struggle with water deficiency, it will severely affect tomato yield.

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A lack of potassium can result in yellow shoulders on the fruit and a tough, white core, especially during hot summer months. Blossom-end rot, a prevalent nutritional disorder in tomatoes, arises from calcium deficiency. Even if soil has sufficient calcium, inadequate watering can prevent it from dissolving and being absorbed by the roots. If watering practices are sufficient yet blossom-end rot continues, it’s advisable to conduct a soil test and consult a local county extension agent for solutions.

Choosing organic fertilizers such as compost, fish emulsion, poultry litter, worm castings, and blood or bone meal is advantageous as they are sourced from living organisms. These fertilizers are more environmentally sustainable and safer than conventional synthetic options, releasing nutrients gradually. When utilizing organic fertilizers, combine them with compost, cover crops, and crop rotation to build soil health. For further insights on transitioning from inorganic to organic fertilizers, you can learn here.

Alternatively, synthetic fertilizers can be applied at approximately 1.5 pounds (3 cups) of 13-13-13 for every 25 feet of row or 75 square feet. Disperse evenly over the soil, raking it in 3-6 inches deep. Additional sidedressing is suggested when the first immature fruits appear. This method entails adding fertilizer around established plants during their fruiting or vine stage primarily to supply nitrogen. For each plant, sprinkle 2 tablespoons, ensuring it is about 6 inches away from the stem, and water it into the soil. Indeterminate tomatoes benefit from additional sidedressing every 3-4 weeks throughout the growing season. Fish emulsion also acts as a quick-release nitrogen source for those using organic fertilizers.

Support

Staking tomatoes enhances fruit quality by elevating plants and fruits off the ground, making harvesting simpler. While determinate tomato plants are often staked despite shorter stems, indeterminate tomato plants require support to guide the stem's vertical growth and bear the weight of the fruits on their tall stems thus enhancing yield and fruit quality. Although several support methods exist, cages are not advisable as they hinder air circulation and elevate disease risks. Below are three effective methods for supporting tomato plants:

1. Utilize a wooden stake for each tomato plant (recommended for smaller plantings). Insert a 4- to 5-foot (for determinate) or 8-foot (for indeterminate) wooden stake approximately 12 inches deep at the suggested planting intervals of around 24 inches. Plant each seedling next to a stake. Once the seedlings reach 12-15 inches high, secure them to the stakes using elastic nylon bands in a loose loop to avoid girdling. Continue supporting the plants every 12-15 inches of growth. Refer to this video for guidance starting at 3:30.
2. Adopt the Florida Weave Technique (ideal for rows of plants). Position a metal T-post at both ends and one in the middle of each row, then place additional 4- to 5-foot (for determinate) or 8-foot (for indeterminate) wooden stakes between a few tomato plants. As the plants grow to 12-15 inches, run garden or nylon twine about 10 inches above the soil, weaving it between the plants and securing it to the stakes without tying the plants directly to the twine or stakes. Additional levels of trellis should be added every 12-15 inches of plant growth. A helpful video tutorial on the Florida Weave System is available.
3. Implement a vertical trellis (best for rows of plants; minimal staking needed). Drive 8-10 foot tall metal T-posts about 2 feet into the ground between each 4-5 tomato plants. This will likely require a T-post driver. Next, hang a sturdy wire (about 9 gauge) between each post or attach another structure above. Then, extend garden or nylon twine down from this wire to each tomato plant, tying the twine in a loose knot around the plant base to avoid choking as it grows. Begin wrapping the stems early without pinching the leaves. This technique ensures the plants are never attached to stakes or posts. For practical guidance, refer to this video on setting up a vertical trellis and this one for winding twine around the stems. A solid design for a permanent vertical tomato trellis that can be integrated into a raised bed is also presented in this video.

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Suckering and Pruning

Pruning and suckering are vital for maximizing fruit size and yield, while also managing pests and preventing diseases. The goal of pruning is to achieve an appropriate balance between vine and fruit growth. Limited or no pruning can lead to a plant burdened with many small fruits, whereas moderate pruning fosters fewer but larger fruits that are easier to harvest. Furthermore, pruning can accelerate the maturation of primary fruits and enhance spray coverage for pest control. Recommended pruning varies according to the tomato variety, season, and growing conditions.

Suckering involves the regular removal of buds or suckers from the main plant stem that could otherwise induce extra side shoots. This can be achieved by pinching off smaller shoots by hand or using sharp snips for larger ones to minimize damage to the plant. Refer to these resources for effective suckering and pruning techniques:

1. A concise video on how to sucker and prune tomato plants.
2. A more detailed video on tomato suckering and pruning along with additional growing tips.

For indeterminate varieties, prune to create one or two main stems while removing all suckers along these stems. Conversely, pruning determinate varieties is generally discouraged as they exhibit limited stem growth and are generally bushier. It’s essential to prune lower leaves and stems across all varieties to prevent them from contacting the ground.

Weeds

Plastic mulch is effective in controlling the majority of weeds. Weeds close to the plants, particularly in planting holes, should be removed by hand. Organic mulching options such as hay or straw can also help suppress weeds within plant rows.

Insect Pests and Disease

Aphids and thrips are common pests of tomato plants, with the potential to transmit severe viruses like tomato spotted wilt virus and tobacco mosaic virus. Tomatoes face various threats including viral illnesses (like tomato spotted wilt virus and tobacco mosaic virus), fungal infections (e.g., anthracnose), and physiological issues (e.g., blossom-end rot, sun scald). Many tomato varieties are resistant to specific diseases, making it important to select these, especially in gardens previously afflicted by such conditions. Effective prevention strategies include using reflective mulch, avoiding overhead irrigation, and practicing crop rotation. For further assistance, refer to Table 3 for diagnosing and managing common tomato pest and disease issues.

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Table 3. Organic and Natural Management for Common Tomato Insect Pests and Diseases