Furring metal lath
The simplest way to fur metal lath is to buy self-furring lath. Here's a look at the self-furring diamond mesh lath.
The lath features dimples, or crimps, about 1/4" deep and 3" apart, which create a space between the metal lath and the wall. This gap allows mortar to penetrate behind the lath, providing better support and reinforcement.
In the past, I’ve attempted to create self-furring lath by manually beating a bundle of flat lath with a hammer. However, purchasing pre-furred lath is a superior option that saves time and ensures consistency.
Using non-furred lath or failing to fur flat lath can lead to a weaker product, prone to failure. California-style stucco mesh, for instance, has self-furring crimps. Note that rows of crimps are typically marked with red or yellow paint, making them easy to locate for an efficient nailing pattern. While ideally, you’d aim to hit the center of the dimple with your nail, manufacturers acknowledge that it's not always possible to achieve this precision every time. The key factor is ensuring the lath is somewhat baggy, allowing mortar to penetrate well behind it.
Furring nails are designed for flat lath, using a washer to position the lath away from the wall for an effective key. Although this method can be slow, it is functional. Using self-furring lath, however, allows for quicker application as it can be affixed using a roofing nailer.
Historically, furring nails were hook-shaped, a design seen in houses from the 1930s that used welded wire lath. This method proved quite effective. For more detailed guidance on furring lath methods,
please click here.
Stucco lath vs. Diamond lath [Archive]
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mctile
Just got done floating out a shower. All the tile stores were closed today and the home deep hole was out of diamond lath. Went ahead and used the stucco lath. It was about twenty times easier to install and handle and I noticed no difference in how it held my mud. My question is this-Is there anything wrong with using stucco lath for shower mud walls?
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Ron
You mean 2x2 welded wire? Or self furring lath?
I like the 2x2 16 gauge wire, especially the one with the bent wire that keeps it proud of the wall. I use it in mortar beds too.
mctile
Yea, the 2x2 on the roll. Inexpensive, easy to work with, and it may be the first installation I didn't add the dried blood collection on my T-50.
Shaughnn
Matthew,
I don't think that 2-by-2 will provide adequate support for wall mortar. The reinforcement is too far apart. It's fine for shower pans and floors, where gravity is an aid in keeping it in place but for walls you need a finer mesh.
Shaughnn
bddog
I always have some Stucco Rite left in the yard and have been using it on tubs for years. It is welded and already has tar paper backing. It has another layer of brown perforated paper and the wire is bent. Believe me the mud sticks just fine. I put it right over the studs and go for it.
Cut it with Malco shears. The stuff is straight and a time saver. It makes for a real even mud job. Not for ceilings though--Steve
mctile
O.K.- I didn't notice any difference in how the mud stuck. In fact, it keyed in much easier. So Shawn, are you saying that it will not be as strong once it has cured?
Hamilton
I use the pre papered stucco wire that looks like chicken wire sometimes.
Difference is the gauge is a lot heavier and the wire is wrapped closer
together than 2". I only use this when I'm doing a 2 step mud job.
Shaughnn
Mathew,
I've only got my opinion on this, but I think that the larger spacing will not give the mortar as much support and it may prove weaker because of it. I'm curious to know if there have been any tests of this?
Shaughnn
mctile
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I would be interested in that as well Shawn. If I could get away from the old razor wire, it would save me both time and money. Anyone out there have any knowledge of the effectiveness on this subject either way?
Ron
PCI Portland Cement Institute has a book on cement plaster. I bought it because I want to do a traditional stucco job on my house. The book says that 2x2 is good for that but that is the maximum size.
In Western Canada that's what most masons use to wrap a house with. The mortar walls become quite strong at 3/4" plus with that mesh. They use the one that has a "step" in the wire which sets it from the wall 3/16". I buy it here in Toronto and use it mostly for mortar beds but have used it for mud walls too. A few of them were exterior jobs. Good stuff.
Although for a shower, over drywall, I use the lath. Easier to handle a few sheets than a big roll that's hard to unwind. :)
cx
Mark me down as one who's never seen that stuff.
We use the same type of expanded metal lath for stucco that's used for mud beds and such. Can get it in a self-furring style, just little dimples every six inches or so, and/or with black paper attached.
I still prefer to do the two layers of paper first and then add bare lath.
Most of the corners and trim we see have the heavier 3.4(?)lb lath.
I just don't see that 2" welded wire working real well on vertical surfaces, but, then, I ain't no real stucco guy, neither.
My opinion; worth price charged.
mctile
Ron, when you said that it was hard to unroll, it made me think and I went out to my shop to look at my roll 'cause for me it was easy to unroll. This is a 1" octagon lath. It is twisted up in the long straight side of the octagon (kind of furs the stuff out and makes it easy to get tight like dimpled lath). Sorry to mislead all you guys, but I guess I'm talking about the SMALLER stucco lath roll. Anyone ever used it?
Hamilton
That would be the same stuff I use Matt. Its good stuff it is. It makes
for a super strong shower in fact. If you ever demo a shower constructed
this way (I've demo'd a lot of them) you will have 100% confidence in it.
It's a lot more common than you may realize. In fact, most of the socal
tracts I have worked on that are floated 2 step are all prepped like this.
In fact, I only use 2.5# metal lath for floating 1 step showers. I have put
2.5 over studs and scratch coated, but I prefer the papered stucco wire...
it's faster ;)
John K
So is it chicken wire (a.k.a poultry netting)? Got a link? ;)
Hamilton
It's not chicken wire, John. It looks like it but the gauge is a lot heavier.
It also comes 2 ways. With felt mounted to it and without. On the kind
that has felt attached already it has 3" of paper extending past the
wire for overlapping. If you envision running the wire horizontally,
there is 3" of paper below the wire. Comes in real handy for overlapping
tub flanges and even protecting a tub while you work. I always leave
the paper heavy until my mud dries and cut off the excess at the face
of the mudwork. Maybe Matt can post up a pic? Got any scraps left Matt?
mctile
I do but I have never been able to post a pic. They are all too big with my digital camera.
JoeC
I can remember one of my general contractors making a negative remark about using K-lath (2x2" stucco wire and paper) but that was more than 25 years ago. I use both 2.5 diamond lath and K-lath or rolled stucco net if it's a big job. Haven't ever had a problem with any one of them. If K-Lath will hold stucco for a 2 or 3 story building, I am thinking that it will hold tile just fine! All of the tile work I did here in So. Calif withstood the Northridge earthquake, so I guess that either of the laths will be just fine.
Hey, one other thing... any recommendations on a good porcelain blade? I have a Felker TM 5 or 6 on my Target right now, but it didn't last long. Thanks for any replies JoeC
cx
Type "saw blades" into the Advanced Search, Joe, and you'll find enough discussion of diamond blades to keep you off the streets for a while.
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