Guys I've been thinking lately about what I'm going to do for attic access in the garage.I've already framed a 22"x54" opening in blind anticipation of an attic ladder (I'm at the pre-drywall stage)...... BUT then I go on Home Depot's website and see that an insulated Fakro ladder is freaking $515.00.I'm a frugal person, but being in the Great White NorthI have to be mindful of heat loss, so an uninsulated hatch isn't going to fly. I'm also not giddy over paying $566 tax in for a ladder either.Is that possible?What about other genius ideas? Like maybe a hatch "hood" that would rest on the ceiling joists encapsulating the stairs, and would of course be insulated. Pull down the stairs and move it out of the way.At this point I'm thinking it's maybe not so bad just using a step ladder with an insulated pop-up door hatch I can make myself.Less Insulation: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/att...ted-lws-p-22-1-2x54-300-lbs-10-ft-9-in/ No Insulation: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/attic-ladder-wooden-basic-lwn-22-1-2x54-250-lbs-10-ft-1-in/ Thanks!
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While Werner offers a large selection of attic ladders in various lengths and material, they are designed to fit standard rough openings of: 22-1/2 x 54, 25 x 54, 25-1/2 x 64 and 30 x 54.
TRADITIONAL ATTIC LADDERS
Before installing, verify the dimensions of the area where you intend to install this ladder vs. the dimensions on the packaging of the item you bought. If your attic ladder will not open fully or extend completely to the ground, do not modify it for use.
Werner sells a replacement foot (item number 36-83 for ALs and 36-98 for AH/AH) that goes 3 farther up the rail of the ladder than the one that comes with the ladder. If it is a minor cutting error, this can correct it.
Measure the installed frame from corner to corner (diagonally). If the two measurements are within 1/8, your frame is square. If your frame is not square, insert shims to square it. From inside the attic, check for obstructions when the door is
closed-check shims, installation, cords, to make sure nothing is interfering with the door shutting properly. Check the springs (or struts) of your ladder and make sure they are working correctly
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No. Check with your local building code if that is whats driving this question. Chances are, you need a product that protects against burn THROUGH, which means you need to add gypsum to your attic door to stop flames from burning through. Merely stopping the spread of flames (as products that meet the E84 standard do) will potentially not meet code in your area.
ENERGY SEAL ATTIC LADDERS
The Energy Seal attic ladder includes insulation within the structure of the door, and a built-in jamb and weatherstripping around the inside of the frame, which creates a tight seal and greatly reduces the amount of air that flows between your attic and your living space.
No. There are too many differences between the Energy Seal product and our traditional attic ladders in the product structure to be able to convert. However, Werner does sell an installation and trim kit (SKU AC59), which includes weatherstripping to add to the frame of your existing attic ladder.
The Energy Seal attic ladder has R-5 Extruded Polystyrene Insulation within the door structure. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating power. R-values shown are from manufacturers literature determined at 75°F, mean temperature. If the insulation is compressed, the R-value decreases.
No. The AE-series Energy Seal attic ladder installs with the same easy steps as our AH-series Aluminum attic ladders.
If you want to learn more, please visit our website Insulated Ladder.
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