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Glass Block
Drilled to insert lights.
Frosted
Wine Bottle
Drilled to insert lights.
Using
a clay dam
lubrication technique
to
drill glass block.
Purple LED lights with
purple
wire in block
with bubbles and swirls.
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Glass Block & Bottle DrillingDrilling in glass block or bottles is basically no different than drilling in normal glass. If you use the appropriate speed, use low drill pressure and plenty of water for lubrication, you won't have any problems. Glass breakage with carbide bits is fairly common, but with a good diamond bit, it is extremely rare. There are a few very important facts and tips that will helpful when drilling glass block or bottles.
There are numerous different types and styles of glass block made by many different manufacturers. Most have some type of design or pattern, however, for drilling purposes, there are two important characteristics to be aware of. Glass block can vary significantly as to the thickness of the glass wall and some glass block is tempered. This information is rarely disclosed on the block itself, but should be considered when buying glass block for crafting purposes.
If you are drilling glass block that has been installed in a wall, you don't have much choice but to drill whatever is there. However, for craft projects, it is good to be selective. If the glass block is 3/8" thick, it will take three times as long to drill compared to block with a 1/8" thick wall. Additionally, it will triple the drill bit wear per hole, causing the bit life to be only one-third as long. Some glass block and bottles are tempered to increase the strength of the glass. Tempered glass should be avoided if reasonably possible.
Experienced crafters who work with glass block and bottles learn to search for different types and styles to test. After drilling a sample of each, it is obvious which has a thin wall and if any are tempered. Also, crafters who are drilling lots of glass blocks or bottles, normally develop some type of "clay dam" or pan drilling method, so that it can be drilled under water to improve lubrication and extend drill bit life. The "clay dam" method of lubrication is very effective for drilling in glass block and is simple to use. Under water pan drilling works best for bottles. "Pumping" the drill is also very important since even under water, the tip of the bit will go dry after drilling about 1/8" deep. Water lubrication techniques are discussed in more detail in the Lubrication Tips & Tricks section.
Glass block normally has a vacuum
inside. Some of the water and glass dust will always be
sucked inside when the hole breaks through. However, it
is easy to rinse out the inside of the block with water as long
as the dirty water inside is not allowed to dry out. The
plug from the hole will sometimes be pulled into the block -
it will usually drop out easily when the inside is rinsed.
However, if too much pressure was placed on the drill as the
hole breaks through, it can cause the plug to have a flair from
the splintering on the rear of the hole. Normally, you
can remove the plug with a pair of needle nose pliers, but the
best solution is to reduce the drill pressure when nearing the
back of the glass to avoid splintering as the drill breaks through.
A piece of wire from a regular coat hanger or a small wooden dowel work great for inserting into the hole to "push" the lights around inside the block, so that all the corners are filled with lights.
A hand drill works fine using a starting template and a clay dam - for a few glass blocks. However, an inexpensive drill press is well worth the cost if you are making lots of blocks. There are many very nice, inexpensive drill presses available these days and they make glass block drilling fast and easy compared to a hand drill.
The most popular diamond drill bit for glass block drilling seems to be the 1/2" size since it is about the right size for light strings. We prefer a 5/8" sized bit because the slightly larger hole gives a little extra room when inserting the lights or when pushing them around and allows easy removal of the lights if you change your mind or need to change a bulb.
Glass blocks sometimes have a white or cream paint coating around the outside edge to give better adhesion for building mortar or caulk. Most people remove the paint, but some just hide it under a ribbon. If the paint is hard to remove, soaking the block in hot water usually softens the paint and allows easy removal with a common kitchen dish scratcher.
Glass blocks come in many sizes, shapes and surface textures. The ones with a heavy surface textures tend to work best since they diffuse the light and hide the light string wires better. Our research has shown that there are at least 15 different surface textures available (there are probably far more), so a little searching can result in finding some unusual patterns that make very nice light blocks. Most people seem to use the standard 8"x8"x3" blocks, maybe because they are easily available. We have found that the smaller 6"x6"x3" blocks and even some of the odd shaped triangular, brick shaped and corner blocks are are also especially nice because of their unique sizes and shapes. There are no limits to the artistic possibilities, so don't be afraid to try something different.
A hot glue gun with clear glue works very well to attach ribbons and bows, or ribbons can be tied as if you were wrapping a package. Most people tend to start out with the multi-colored lights then quickly learn that the white and single colored lights are also beautiful. The non-multi colored lights are especially nice for light blocks that can be used all year round. Light strings also come with various colored wire, so experiment with the white lights with white wire or the red lights with red wire, etc to see what you like.
Finally, if you ever get a chance to try the "LED" or "Tiny Lights", give them a try - especially the big strings of 60 or 100 (it takes a few more lights because they are so small). Yes, they cost more, but they create almost no heat and bulbs last nearly forever. Most importantly, some LED light strings have a light function controller that gives a special random blinking pattern that blinks, twinkles and strobes, etc. If you can find the type with the light controller, the LED strings with the special lighting affect is really worth the additional cost. Our experience is that most people who try the LED lights with the controllers rarely go back to the standard bulb lights.
Drill Bits 101 - Top 3 Things to Know
When it comes to choosing the right drill bit for the job, there are three things to consider; material, coating, and the geometry of the tool. Well break it all down in a concise way to help clear things up to save you some time.
1. Materials
- Whats this thing made out of?The first thing to think about is the composition of the drilling bit. There are three popular composites and they all serve a different purpose.
1a. High-Speed Steel - The Workhorse
High-Speed Steel (HSS) is the most popular drill bit material for several reasons. High-Speed Steel is readily available, and we have plenty of it right here in the United States. HSS is also extremely versatile. Manufacturers can configure an HSS drill bit for just about any application you can think of.
1b. M42 Cobalt or HSS with Cobalt Added
M42 Cobalt is high-speed steel with 8-10% Cobalt added in order to increase the hardness and endurance of the tool. You can pretty much expect the same characteristics as a standard HSS drill, but with increased performance across the board.
1c. Carbide - If Superman was a Drill Bit
Solid Carbide drill bits are the most expensive but they will outlast other drill bit materials by a longshot. A Carbide drill will outlast a Cobalt drill by at least twenty times, reducing the cost-per-hole significantly.
One characteristic of Carbide is that its brittle, so it wont flex. This makes Carbide a bad choice for hand drilling. If youre running a CNC or frequently use a drilling press, this material is worth the investment.
Carbide drills allow for a Through Spindle Coolant system or TSC as its known. In situations where youre drilling deep into very hard materials, the feeding of coolant through the drill allows for better chip evacuation and self-cooling. This also helps to prevent wear, which is nice since TSC drill bits are pricey.
The most expensive in terms of up-front costs
Has the best drill-to-hole ratio
Can be run much faster (three to five times), decreasing the time needed to produce holes
Provides the best heat and chip resistance
Allows for
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Through Spindle Coolantsystem or
TSCWill outlast M42 Cobalt by at least a factor of 10-20
2. Coatings
- The protective shield!Throw a good coating on any drill bit and youll completely change its characteristics. Coatings extend tool life and improve cutting performance. Weve selected a few of the most popular coatings to keep things simple, so lets jump in.
2a. Bright Finish
Bright Finish is a funny term because these drill bits are actually uncoated. Simply put, this keeps costs down.
Inexpensive
Great for drilling into low-carbon steel and aluminum.
2b. Black Oxide
Black Oxide finishes increase lubricity which helps to resist damage from heat and corrosion. Naturally, this also extends the life of the tool. These bits are best for use on ferrous metals.
Inexpensive
More lubricity
Resists oxidation
Heat treatment means 50% longer tool life, over Bright Finish
2c. Black & Gold
Black and Gold finish drill bits resist corrosion and breakage while increasing lubricity. These bits are not prone to chipping and flaking.
One of the most popular coatings for HSS Drills
An excellent coating for field techs wanting an excellent all-around drill bit
2d. TiN or Titanium Nitride
TiN extends the drill life and is an excellent entry-level coating for machining needs.
2e. AlTiN or Aluminum Titanium Nitride
AlTiN is a couple of steps up from TiN, with extended life and performance. An interesting charismatic is that these do not perform well on aluminum since aluminum is part of the coating.
Excellent for wet milling of titanium and high-temp material
Much higher heat tolerance compared to TiN and TiCN.
Good for use applications where chipping isnt an issue
Not great for aluminum drilling
3. Geometry
Geometry is just as important as the material and coating when it comes to the performance and characteristics of a drill bit. Consider that every manufacturer has its own proprietary configurations so well just focus on the general aspects.
3a. Webbing
Skinny drill bits snap more easily than thick drill bits. This is where spending a little more money for heavy-duty geometry is nice. That said, there is much more to drill design than the thickness and its not always a priority but it is a nice thing to be aware of.
3b. Length
A shorter drill bit is more rigid which is ideal so you should always use the shortest drill possible. That said, sometimes you have to use a longer drill bit. In these instances, you should at least use the shortest flute-length (cutting portion) possible. Using a drill with an unnecessary long flute length means that youre choosing to use a less stable drill. This is not advised. The next question to ask is, How much flute length do I need? The rule of thumb for determining this is to take the diameter of the drill bit, double that, and then youll have the minimal flute length needed above the hole for proper chip evacuation.
Stubbies drills are great in CNC machines
Jobbers are good for use in drill presses and in hand-held drill guns.
There are many lengths for various applications
3c. Drill Point Angle
About flute length
There are actually a handful of drill point angles, but 118º and 135º are the two most common. A 118º drilling point is commonly put on lower-cost, general-purpose drill bits. Its suitable for mild steel, aluminum, and other soft metals. On the other hand, 135º is for hardened steel and other tougher materials.
3d. Helix Angle (spiral angle)
A critical feature in twist drills, helix angles determine the process of chip formation. Large helix angles are good at removing soft, long-chipping materials. Small helix angles are good for the removal of hard, short-chipping materials. Note that there is some overlap in how helix angles are categorized.
10º to 29º3e. Self-Centering Split Point
This is an excellent and underappreciated feature in twist drills. A split-point drill bit prevents walking when starting a cut. Without a split-point, technicians would first need to drill pilot holes or use punches in order to start their cuts. This would, of course, take a lot more time and cut into your bottom line.
Prevents walking, especially on a curved surface
Split Points generate less heat and require less force
Most Cobalt and Carbide Drills feature Split Points
Not all HSS drill bits manufacturers feature self-centering split points since its more expensive to make these cuts. You get what you pay for
Most HSS drill bit manufacturers do not offer self-centering split-points on drill sizes under 1/16
That Just About Covers It!
As we said earlier, every manufacturer has its own special sauce when it comes to drill bit design but the high-level points we covered here are universal. We hope that this condensed guide will serve as a foundation and help you understand what to consider when choosing the right drill bits for your upcoming jobs.
If you have any questions at all, please feel free to reach out to our team at (833) 4-ETOOLS. You can also us at .
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