Choosing the Right Gold: Comparing 10K, 14K, 18K, 22K ...

Every individual has unique preferences, hence, determining the ideal gold type requires assessing several factors. When choosing gold for an engagement ring, elements such as your profession, level of physical activity, personal style, budget, and skin sensitivity are crucial in making an informed decision.

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In most instances, 14K gold strikes a perfect balance between color richness, robust durability, and affordable pricing. This blend is why approximately 90% of gold jewelry sales in the USA are in 14K gold. It is also often deemed the best composition for rose gold and white gold due to the specific alloy ratios mixed with pure gold, resulting in a lovely, warm rose hue when mixed with copper, or a bright, icy white when integrated with silver or nickel.

The 18K iterations of rose and white gold might have an excess of yellow gold, at a 75% purity level, which can affect the expected color outcome. Rose gold and white gold both already resist tarnishing effectively, but white gold requires periodic rhodium plating to maintain its icy finish, whereas rose gold retains its luster for a lifetime. Initially, both 14K white gold and 18K white gold with rhodium plating look identical.

For those who adore a rich, golden appearance, 18K gold provides this with only a slight compromise on durability. However, remember that this gold variant is softer and may scratch easily with frequent wearing during rigorous activities. It's also a pricier option than 14K gold, yet it is generally more hypoallergenic.

If you wish to achieve the closest resemblance to pure gold, 22K gold is your premium choice. It holds a higher price tag but offers an intensely rich yellow tone, almost akin to pure gold. Keep in mind that it is most appropriate for wedding bands that do not support heavy gemstones due to its softness and lower durability, rendering it less protective of the stone.

All levels of gold purity can be sourced from either newly mined metals or recycled materials. New gold is extensively mined in countries like South Africa, Peru, Russia, the USA, and Australia, often involving ethical and environmental issues. Recycling metals produces jewelry of the same high quality as newly mined metals but without the adverse effects of mining. At Ken & Dana Design, we solely use recycled metals for our crafting, a practice many other professional jewelers are adopting.

Discovering your perfect metal choice can be as complex as finding the ideal diamond or setting. While several factors influence your metal choice, the most vital element is the joy you derive from seeing the finished piece on your finger. Make your selection with this concept as a priority, and you won't make a wrong choice.

Corkie Bolton
BEGINNERS
11 minute read

Starting a new journey in jewelry-making often means confronting a wide array of material options, which can be overwhelming, especially for beginners. You may want to be strategic about material selection to ensure your designs are durable and visually appealing without causing financial strain.

In this detailed guide, I'll provide visual aids and explanations to simplify the options available when purchasing materials for your projects, helping you confidently decide what's best for your creative vision. Whether you're a seasoned artisan or just starting, understanding these nuances is key to bringing your creations to life.

Understanding the Different Metal Options

First, we must discuss the various options for buying silver. The most prevalent type is sterling silver (.925), which contains 7.5% copper for added durability and strength but is slightly more prone to firescale and tarnish. Another option is fine silver (.999), which is significantly softer, whiter in appearance, and much less prone to tarnish as it is nearly pure silver. Fine silver can be fused.

For beginners, fine silver is often too soft for ring bands and structural components, as it can dent and bend easily. However, it can be excellent for bezel wire. Argentium Silver, available in two grades (.940 and .960), offers increased tarnish resistance, a whiter color, and a firestain-free surface. It is produced exclusively using recycled silver, ensuring traceability of raw materials.

Most jewelers, especially those starting, typically learn with Sterling silver due to its affordability and essential durability characteristics.

What is a Gauge Anyway?

When buying a sheet of silver, you'll encounter the term "gauge." In the United States, gauge measures the thickness of the metal—the lower the gauge number, the thicker the metal. This standardized measurement system often confuses new buyers. Understanding the corresponding millimeter measurements can also help reduce this confusion.

Choosing the Appropriate Gauge Sheet

Sheet metal is one of the most commonly used forms of silver in jewelry making, available from 8g (3.2mm) to 34g (0.2mm) in the US. For practicality, I'll focus on sterling silver (.925). Answering the question of which gauge sheet to buy largely depends on your design needs. A good starting point is an 18g (1mm) sheet because it is versatile—thick enough to be stamped, light enough to construct earrings, and strong enough to back a bezel without warping.

If your budget allows, having 20g (.81mm) and 16g (1.2mm) sheets can offer additional flexibility for future projects. My preference is to create substantial jewelry that isn’t overly heavy or bulky.

Understanding "Dead Soft" and "Hard" Metals

In addition to selecting the metal type and gauge, different temper options are available. Temper refers to the hardness of the metal, ranging from dead soft (annealed) to spring-hard (extremely hardened with no malleability). For soldering projects, starting with dead soft is ideal because it's easy to work with, and any hardness is lost during heating. A harder sheet may be suitable for designs requiring strength and no soldering, such as sawing out designs and cold connecting them.

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When selecting the proper sheet, ask yourself several questions: Will the project undergo much wear and tear (e.g., rings or bracelets)? If yes, sterling silver is your best choice. Selecting an appropriate gauge to withstand wear while remaining comfortable is essential. For example, heavy earrings can be uncomfortable, while delicate rings, although attractive, can quickly become misshapen. Opting for 20g (.81mm) offers cost savings and durability suitable for bezels and simple backplates.

The vast array of options can be daunting when purchasing jewelry-making materials. Various sheets, wires, and decorative metals are available. I've collaborated with Rio Grande to provide tips for making confident material choices for your next project!

Purchasing Round Wire

Wire is another commonly used form of silver in jewelry making, and you can inexpensively buy small quantities. Wire comes in a range of gauges from 0 (8.26mm) to 32 (.2mm). Wire applications vary widely, from ring bands to hoop earrings, and the gauge selection will depend on wear and tear expectations. For example, 10g (2.5mm) wire provides more strength than 14g (1.6mm) wire, making the former ideal for rings and the latter for earrings.

For earring posts and French wires, 20g (0.80mm) typically suits most customers. The wire hardness should correspond to its use; soldered wire becomes annealed, while wire for cold connecting should retain its hardness for strength. Hard wire can also be used for wire wrapping and creating rivets.

What About Half-Round Wire?

Half-round wire is popular for its versatility. With a flat side and a round side, it's an excellent choice for ring bands and cuffs. The gauge measures the thickest part but be aware that its partial thickness means it might appear thinner. For rings, 8g or thicker is advisable, and experimenting with 0-4 gauges for cuffs ensures sturdiness!

Purchasing Bezel Wire

When choosing bezel wire, consider gauges 24 (.51mm) to 30 (.25mm) and various heights. For beginners, thinner gauges like 28g-30g are easier to manipulate, especially with hand tools. Fine silver bezels push over more easily, while thicker gauge bezels are suitable for hammer setting. Consider the stone's hardness (MOH scale) when choosing the gauge, with softer stones necessitating hand-setting and, thus, thinner bezels.

Regarding bezel height, consider the cabochon's shape and height. Having multiple bezel wire heights ensures flexibility; if the wire is too tall, it can always be trimmed. Variety is helpful for those who use different cabochons frequently.

What About Decorative Wires?

Decorative wires, gallery wires, and patterned options abound. Evaluating their thickness and height is crucial for design compatibility. Sometimes, your creative instincts might drive you towards a specific wire, and that's perfectly fine. Gallery wires should be cautiously annealed due to brittleness during formation, while other decorative wires should be gently handled to avoid marring.

Where to Buy Sheet Metals and Wires for Jewelry Making?

You can find jewelry-making materials from retailers such as:

HALSTEAD BEAD
STULLER
RIO GRANDE

For a comprehensive understanding, consider my book "Metalsmith Society’s Guide To Jewelry Making." It covers all the tools and techniques for beginners and includes ten simple projects with a shopping list for each. Join our community @metalsmithsociety and share this article on Pinterest if you found it helpful!

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